Rabbit Guide
1. HAY
The single most important item in the rabbit diet is grass HAY, and it should be fed in​ unlimited​​ quantities to both adults and baby rabbits. A rabbit fed only commercial rabbit pellets does not get enough long fiber to keep the intestines in good working order. Alfalfa or clover hays, although tasty for the rabbit, are too rich in protein and calcium to be fed ad libitum. Instead, offer fresh grass hays such as timothy, oat, coastal, brome, Bahia or wheat. I personally feed my bunnies Timothy Hay from Kaytee, I also like the Oxbow Timothy Hay, they carry "first cut" hay that is high in fiber.​
2. PELLETS​
Very little pelleted food is required for good health. Recommendation is no more than 1/8 cup of quality pellets per 5 lbs. of rabbit per day. I personally feed my bunnies Kaytee pellets. A good quality rabbit pellet DOES NOT contain dried fruit, seeds, nuts, colored crunchy things.
Baby rabbits may be fed unlimited pellets, as their bones and muscles need plenty of protein and calcium for proper growth.

3. VEGGIES!
Fresh greens help keep intestinal contents hydrated, which makes them easier for the bunny to pass. Trace nutrients, fiber, and just plain old tastiness are other benefits of fresh greens. NOTE: ​Baby rabbits may start receiving greens very gradually at the age of about two months.​Fresh, moist greens a re about as important as hay in maintaining a healthy intestine. ​Serve the vegetables wet, as this will help increase your rabbit's intake of liquid. Try broccoli, dark leaf lettuces, kale, parsley, carrots with tops, basil, mint, cilantro​(My bunnies really love this!), culantro, spinach, tomato, celery (cut up into 1" pieces). Experiment and see which types your rabbit likes best! Rabbits love fresh, fragrant herbs fresh from the garden.​Give starchy vegetables (e.g., carrots) in moderation, and use bits of fruit only in very, very small quantities, as special treats.
Safe fruits & treats:​ apple, apricot, banana, cherries, mango, peach, plum, papaya, pineapple, apricot, ​berries​ . . Don't feed your rabbit cookies, crackers, nuts, seeds, breakfast cereals or "high fiber" cereals.​
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Resource: http://www.bio.miami.edu
What should my bunny eat?
All that you need to know before getting your furry bab​y! I strongly recommend to read this if you're planning to get a bunny.
Learning to Use the Litter box
Spay/Neuter: The First Step
​To train your rabbit to use a litterbox in a selected area, choose a litterbox that is the right size for the bunny.
What Type of Litters are Safe for Rabbits?
Be sure to use ORGANIC litter in the box. Clay litters--especially clumping litters--are very unhealthy for reasons. First, the inhaled clay dust can cause respiratory problems. the highly dehydrated clay litter absorbs vital fluids from the intestine itself and can cause serious impactions and intestinal slowdowns.Do not use cedar or pine shavings!​ The best is to use paper bedding, i personally use Yesterday's News and care fresh ultra. I get them from PETCO.
 Don't force a tiny dwarf rabbit to leap into an enormous, high-sided box designed for a gigantic cat--and don't make your French Lop squeeze his big frame into a toaster-sized toilet. The litter box should be comfortable, and located in a quiet, private place. I place them in a corner because they are more likely to defecate there.
It often helps to put a handful of timothy hay in a clean corner of the litter box to encourage use of the box. A rabbit will often sit in the box, happily munching at one end, while the processed product comes out the other end. This may seem a bit disgusting to a human, but rabbits don't consider their feces to be dirty.
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Resource: http://www.bio.miami.edu
Can I train my bunny?
1. Rabbit cage
Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest. Just because its called "rabbit home" it does not mean it is the right home for your rabbit.
2. How Big
As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a ramp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too.
When i got my first to rabbit i bought two midwest guinea pig cage and put it together to form a big cage for them, I love these cages because you can customize them any way you like. I would also recommend c&c cages, is a build it up yourself cage and you can make it as big as you want and is fully customizable. you can get the grids at stores like Walmart and target, they also sell them at amazon. they are call storage cube grids. You can check at http://www.guineapigcagesstore.com/ they will make you the c&c cage how you want it and ship it to you !

Resource: http://www.bio.miami.edu